Remulass

Root Vegetables as a Creative Statement

There is a particular argument being made in contemporary Italian cooking: that the most interesting material in the kitchen is not the luxury protein at the leading of the plate but the fermented, pickled, and roasted matter underneath it. Across northern Italy, a generation of chefs has turned toward the larder of field and forest, using root vegetables, wild herbs, and preserved ingredients as primary flavours rather than supporting ones. Remulass, on Via Nino Bixio in the Porta Venezia district of Milan, makes that argument with unusual clarity and consistency.

The name comes directly from the Milanese dialect word for wild radish, and the phrase "cooking with roots" functions both as a literal description of what arrives on the plate and as a commitment to regional culinary identity. In a city where modern cuisine frequently means global technique applied to Italian ingredients, the specificity of that framing matters. It places Remulass in a smaller, more focused tier: restaurants where the sourcing logic determines the menu logic, and where vegetables carry the editorial weight of the cooking.

Where Remulass Sits in Milan's Modern Dining Hierarchy

Milan's upper tier of modern cuisine is consolidated around a handful of expensive, chef-driven addresses. Cracco in Galleria operates at the €€€€ level, as do comparators like Contraste and Andrea Aprea, where prix-fixe formats and tasting menus are the primary mode of service. Remulass operates at €€, which in Milan's current pricing structure puts it in a distinctly different peer set: accessible enough for a regular midweek dinner, ambitious enough in its cooking to generate the kind of demand that fills small rooms on weeknights.

That price positioning reflects a broader shift visible across several European cities. A number of the more interesting rooms working with vegetable-forward, fermented, and herb-driven menus are pitching themselves below the tasting-menu tier, with shorter menus, smaller covers, and faster turns. 28 Posti operates in a comparable register, and Altriménti draws from a similar impulse toward ingredient-led simplicity. Remulass holds its own in that company through a combination of Michelin recognition and a kitchen identity specific enough to be legible from the menu alone.

The Michelin Plate awarded in 2025 signals that the guide's inspectors consider the cooking here consistently well-executed within its category, even without the star designation that would push it into the upper bracket occupied by Acanto or Ceresio 7. A Plate is a meaningful floor, not a ceiling, and at this price point it represents good value relative to the standard of the cooking.

The Cooking: Colour, Fermentation, and Aromatic Precision

The kitchen at Remulass produces dishes that Michelin's own inspectors describe as attractively modern and colourful, with root vegetables and aromatic herbs appearing consistently across the menu. In practice, that means cooking that draws on fermentation, pickling, and herb infusion as technique and flavour tools rather than as fashionable garnish. The approach connects Remulass to a wider northern Italian tradition that has always taken preserved and foraged ingredients seriously, even as it renders that tradition through a contemporary visual and technical vocabulary.

Dish singled out by Michelin inspectors is fermented vegetables with baked ricotta and a gin dressing. The combination is instructive about the kitchen's method: fermented vegetables bring acidity and depth; baked ricotta provides a soft, slightly caramelised dairy counterpoint; gin in the dressing introduces botanical complexity that reinforces the herb-and-root logic of the whole menu. It is a plate that could only make sense in a kitchen working from this specific ingredient philosophy, which is precisely the point.

For broader context on where Italy's most ambitious modern kitchens are taking root-to-table and terroir-led cooking, the range runs from Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler in Brunico at the high-altitude, fine-dining end through to Osteria Francescana in Modena and Uliassi in Senigallia as reference points for what technique and regional commitment look like at the three-star tier. Dal Pescatore in Runate, Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence, and Quattro Passi in Marina del Cantone each represent different regional expressions of the same commitment to Italian ingredient identity. Remulass operates at a more everyday price point than any of those addresses, but the underlying logic is recognisably part of the same conversation.

Beyond Italy, the vegetable-first, technique-led modern format has gained traction across Scandinavia and the Gulf. Frantzén in Stockholm and FZN by Björn Frantzén in Dubai show how the same appetite for precise, produce-anchored cooking translates across very different culinary contexts.

Practical Planning

Remulass is a small restaurant, and it fills quickly. Booking in advance is strongly recommended for evening service, where tables are typically occupied throughout the night. The address is Via Nino Bixio, 21, in the Porta Venezia neighbourhood, a walkable area east of the city centre with good connections by metro and tram.

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