Au Relais des Bois

Where the Forest Comes to the Table

Au Relais des Bois is a restaurant in Sturzelbronn, France, serving Traditional Alsatian Regional Cuisine at about $45 per person. Sturzelbronn does not announce itself. The village sits deep inside the Northern Vosges Regional Natural Park, a UNESCO-designated biosphere reserve that stretches across the Franco-German border, and the drive in through sandstone lanes and dense mixed forest makes the point before you arrive anywhere. This is not a dining destination framed by city infrastructure or a celebrated wine region, it is a place where the surrounding land is the entire context, and where a traditional French auberge format has survived precisely because the ingredients it depends on are still here, unchanged.

Au Relais des Bois occupies a position at 13 Rue Principale that is as direct as the village itself. The address on the main street places it at the social centre of a settlement that numbers its permanent residents in the hundreds. In a hamlet this size, a restaurant functions differently from how it does in a regional capital: it is simultaneously a local fixture and, for visitors who make the deliberate detour, the reason to come at all.

The Northern Vosges Larder

The ingredient story in this part of Alsace-Lorraine is one that larger, more celebrated French restaurants have spent considerable effort trying to replicate at remove. The Northern Vosges park produces wild boar, venison, and game birds through regulated forest management, freshwater fish from streams fed by sandstone aquifers, wild mushrooms across a foraging calendar that runs from spring morels through autumn ceps, and foraged greens and berries that shift with the weeks rather than the seasons in any broad sense.

This is the supply chain that the traditional Vosges auberge was built around, and it represents something genuinely difficult to import. The restaurants that have carried French rural gastronomy into international recognition, Bras in Laguiole for its plateau sourcing, Auberge du Vieux Puits in Fontjoncouse for its Corbières terroir, Les Prés d'Eugénie - Michel Guérard in Eugénie-les-Bains for its Gascony kitchen garden, all share one structural logic: the landscape is not a backdrop but a direct supplier. Au Relais des Bois operates within the same logic, at a scale appropriate to a village table rather than a destination resort.

The auberge tradition in the Vosges predates fine dining as a category. These were roadside stops, hunting-lodge refuelling points, places where foresters and travellers ate whatever the season and the forest had produced. The format has evolved considerably, but its underlying premise has not: the menu follows the land, not the other way around. That constraint, which would frustrate an urban kitchen, is the entire point here.

Placing Au Relais des Bois in the French Rural Dining Register

France's serious rural dining addresses occupy a spectrum that runs from three-Michelin-star destination restaurants, Flocons de Sel in Megève, Troisgros - Le Bois sans Feuilles in Ouches, Auberge de l'Ill in Illhaeusern, through to village auberges that carry no formal recognition but sustain a local food culture that the starred places often look back to as their reference point. Maison Lameloise in Chagny and Georges Blanc in Vonnas represent the institutional middle ground, where provincial cooking achieved formal critical standing over multiple generations.

Au Relais des Bois sits outside that credentialed tier. What it holds instead is a specific address in a specific forest, which in the context of ingredient-led cooking carries its own kind of authority. The comparison set for an address like this is not Mirazur in Menton or Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen in Paris, those restaurants occupy a different register entirely, where technique and creative ambition are the primary signals. The relevant comparison is rather with the broader tradition of the French regional table, where honesty of sourcing and fidelity to place are the criteria.

For travellers who have worked through France's credentialed circuit, Paul Bocuse - L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges in Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, L'Oustau de Baumanière in Les Baux, La Vague d'Or - Cheval Blanc St-Tropez in Saint-Tropez, Le 1947 à Cheval Blanc in Courchevel, an address in Sturzelbronn represents a deliberate step sideways, away from the machinery of recognition and toward something older. That is a legitimate editorial choice, not a consolation.

Getting There and Planning the Visit

Sturzelbronn sits roughly 60 kilometres north of Strasbourg and approximately 20 kilometres from Bitche, the nearest town with reliable services. The village is not served by rail. The drive from Strasbourg takes just over an hour depending on the route through the park, and the roads narrow considerably for the final approach. Visitors coming from Germany will find the border crossing near Wissembourg or Lauterbourg practical, with the park accessible from either direction.

The restaurant is closed Monday through Thursday, with service Friday and Saturday from 11:45 AM to 1:30 PM and 6:45 PM to 8:30 PM, and Sunday from 11:45 AM to 1:30 PM. An address this remote warrants a phone call or email before arrival, the pattern across comparable rural Vosges establishments is that seasonal closures and rest days can vary considerably from year to year.

For those building a longer Alsace-Lorraine itinerary, the Northern Vosges is a natural complement to the Strasbourg dining circuit and can be paired with a crossing into the German Palatinate wine country, where the forest continuity across the border tells a parallel agricultural story. The detour rewards patience over efficiency.