Chi Yuan

Farmhouse Cooking at the Edge of New Taipei

The exposed brick walls of a century-old house set the register before any food arrives. Gongliao District sits on New Taipei's northeastern coast, a stretch where rice paddies and fishing harbours exist within a short drive of each other, and where the culinary logic that governs Chi Yuan makes immediate geographic sense. This is not a city restaurant transplanted to a rural setting for atmosphere. The cooking here is shaped directly by what grows on the chef-owner's farm and what the fishing boats bring in from Gongliao and Keelung waters. That alignment between land, sea, and plate is the point.

Taiwan has a long tradition of farm-to-table cooking that predates the phrase itself. In rural townships and coastal districts, the gap between a kitchen garden and a kitchen has always been short. What distinguishes Chi Yuan within that tradition is the professional discipline applied to it: the chef-owner brings more than 20 years of experience in professional kitchens to a setting that could easily produce rustic but uneven food. Instead, the restraint in seasoning signals technical confidence. When produce is this fresh and this local, heavy saucing would obscure rather than enhance. Lighter hands let the ingredient make the argument.

The Coastal Kitchen Tradition of Gongliao

Gongliao is better known internationally for its surf beach and the Fulong Music Festival than for its food, but the district has a functioning fishing economy that feeds both local households and, increasingly, restaurants with informed sourcing approaches. Keelung, a short distance up the coast, is one of Taiwan's most active fishing ports, and its night market and harbour-side stalls have shaped northeastern Taiwanese palates for generations. The seafood arriving at Chi Yuan sits inside that coastal supply network, which means variety and quality shift with the season rather than a fixed menu.

This seasonal variability is a feature, not a limitation. Restaurants across Taiwan's dining spectrum, from the Michelin-starred counter dining of logy in Taipei and JL Studio in Taichung to indigenous-focused cooking at Akame in Wutai Township, share a common strand: the island's geography produces notable raw ingredients, and the leading cooking treats that as an asset rather than a constraint. The restaurant operates on the same principle at a community scale, without the tasting-menu format or the reservation infrastructure of its more prominent peers.

Summer and the Wood Ear Fungus

Timing a visit to the restaurant around the summer months unlocks a specific dimension of the menu. The chef-owner grows wood ear fungus on his own farm, and dishes built around the summer harvest represent the clearest expression of the kitchen's farm-to-table logic: an ingredient grown by the same hands that prepare it, cooked in a house that has stood for a century. Wood ear fungus has a firm, slightly gelatinous texture and a mild, earthy flavour that carries dressing and aromatics well. It appears frequently in Taiwanese home cooking, in cold salads, stir-fries, and soups, and its presence on a restaurant menu signals a kitchen interested in everyday local ingredients rather than prestige imports.

That orientation places the restaurant alongside a broader movement in Taiwanese regional cooking that values agricultural specificity over cosmopolitan range. It is a different register from the urban Taiwanese restaurants that have drawn international attention, but not a lesser one. Zhu Xin Ju in Tainan and GEN in Kaohsiung represent how regional Taiwanese cooking can command serious critical attention when executed with precision. The restaurant operates in a quieter key, but the sourcing logic is structurally similar.

Placing Chi Yuan in New Taipei's Dining Picture

New Taipei is a vast municipality that wraps around Taipei proper, and its dining character varies considerably by district. The coastal northeast, where Gongliao sits, is different in tone and emphasis from the more urban eating options in Banqiao or Zhonghe. Visitors exploring our full New Taipei restaurants guide will find that the city's range spans from snack-focused street food, represented by spots like A Gan Yi Taro Balls and A-ba's Taro Ball, to more substantial table dining at places like Amajia, BAK KUT PAN, and Chia I. The restaurant belongs to neither of those categories. It occupies a quieter niche: a destination meal that requires deliberate travel and rewards it with cooking rooted in specific geography.

That geographic rootedness is worth taking seriously. Restaurants that source from a named farm operated by the chef-owner carry a provenance claim that is difficult to replicate at scale. The century-old house on Neiliao Street is not a designed backdrop. It is the literal site where this cooking tradition has taken hold, and the exposed brick and farmhouse structure communicate that continuity without any additional staging.

For those planning around accommodation and the broader northeastern New Taipei area, our full New Taipei hotels guide covers the range of options across the municipality. Those interested in exploring beyond restaurants can also consult our full New Taipei bars guide, our full New Taipei wineries guide, and our full New Taipei experiences guide for a fuller picture of what the region offers. Elsewhere in Taiwan, Volando Urai Spring Spa and Resort in Wulai District also combines a natural setting with food that references its immediate surroundings, for those drawn to that format.

Planning a Visit

The restaurant is located at 22 Neiliao Street in Gongliao District, a coastal area of New Taipei that requires a specific journey rather than a casual drop-in. Reaching Gongliao from central Taipei takes roughly an hour by train on the Yilan Line from Taipei Main Station, with Gongliao Station the relevant stop. Given the distance and the cooking's farm-seasonal rhythm, arriving with a clear sense of what is available in the current season makes the trip more productive. The summer wood ear fungus dishes are one specific seasonal signal available from current data.