Mu Ramen

Our verdict

A former Per Se chef opening a ramen shop in Long Island City was always going to attract attention, and Joshua Smookler's Mu Ramen earned it. The restaurant drew a New York Times review and sustained coverage from Eater NY, placing it among the more closely watched noodle destinations the borough produced in its era. The address on Jackson Avenue, a stretch better known for industrial blocks than restaurant rows, meant diners arrived with purpose rather than by accident. The cooking resisted easy categorisation. Rather than anchoring to a single regional Japanese tradition, Smookler applied fine-dining technique to ramen in ways that reflected his background: one documented bowl built its broth from oxtail and bone marrow, then layered corned beef brisket, half-sour pickles, cabbage, and fish cake on top. A separate preparation paired uni and ikura in a bowl that pushed the format toward something closer to a composed appetiser. The result was a menu that sat at the intersection of Japanese noodle craft and New York culinary sensibility, with pricing to match, one appetiser-format dish was noted at $25, consistent with the broader expectation of NYC fine-casual pricing. The physical space reinforced the destination quality. Seating was limited, the exterior understated, and the draw was entirely the food rather than the setting. That combination, a hard-to-find room, a chef with serious credentials, and a menu that required some explanation, gave Mu Ramen a following that extended well beyond the immediate neighbourhood. Mu Ramen has since closed.