F.K.A.B.A.M
Our verdict
F.K.A.B.A.M transforms British nose-to-tail cooking into rebellious art at Lee Tiernan's 24-seat Islington sanctuary, where wood-fired Turkish mangal techniques elevate offal and lesser cuts into cult-status tasting menus that challenge every fine dining convention.

Where nose-to-tail British cooking collides with Turkish mangal fire, F.K.A.B.
A. John Bread and Wine head chef Lee Tiernan has created something entirely unprecedented—a haute-kebabery that transforms offal into art while maintaining an unapologetically rock 'n' roll soul. Tiernan's decade-long tenure at the legendary St. John Bread and Wine provided the foundation for his nose-to-tail philosophy, but F.
K.A.B.A.
M represents his complete creative liberation. Originally launched as Black Axe Mangal in 2015, the restaurant evolved post-pandemic into its current incarnation, retaining its cult status while refining its bold approach to British gastronomy. The name itself—Formerly Known As Black Axe Mangal—signals this evolution while honoring its rebellious roots. Despite operating without major awards, F.
K.A.B.A.
The cuisine defies easy categorization, fusing traditional British butchery with vibrant Turkish, Middle Eastern, and Southeast Asian influences. Tiernan's five-course tasting menu showcases signature creations like lamb offal-topped lahmacun-style flatbreads and ox tongue hot pockets stuffed with melted Ogleshield cheese. The ever-changing menu celebrates the entire animal, transforming lamb's heart, crispy rabbit with chili and apple, and squid-ink flatbread with smoked cod's roe into revelatory experiences. Even the theatrical foie gras "choc ice" topped with sprinkles demonstrates Tiernan's playful irreverence.
Thoughtful vegan options ensure the adventurous spirit extends beyond carnivorous boundaries, while the wood-fired oven centerpiece infuses every dish with distinctive smoky intensity. The black industrial aesthetic creates an intimate culinary theater, where the dominant dome-shaped wood-fired oven serves as both cooking vessel and dramatic focal point. Kate Tiernan leads the front-of-house with warmth that balances the restaurant's edgy reputation, creating a welcoming atmosphere despite the cult-like booking frenzy. The natural wine program emphasizes low-intervention bottles that complement the cuisine's intensity, while theatrical drinks like the "Borscht Backs" shot ritual reflect the kitchen's adventurous spirit.
Plastic-covered floral tablecloths and minimal external signage reinforce the deliberately unpretentious vibe. Securing a table at F.K.A.
B.A.M requires dedication—reservations open four weeks in advance via Resy, with limited walk-in availability at the kitchen bar. For those seeking fine dining that challenges conventions while celebrating British culinary heritage, F.
K.A.B.A.
M offers an unforgettable journey into fearless gastronomy.
In Context
Comparable venues nearby, for context on price, style, and recognition.
| Venue | Cuisine | Price | Awards | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| F.K.A.B.A.MThis venue (the venue you are viewing) | Progressive Kebabs | Not listed | Not listed | Not listed |
| Tre Viet | Authentic Vietnamese | $20–30 | Not listed | Hackney Central, Authentic Vietnamese |
| Kruk | Modern Thai | $20–30 | Michelin Bib Gourmand | Peckham, Modern Thai |
| Lai Rai | Modern Vietnamese Street Food | $30–50 | Michelin Bib Gourmand | Peckham, Modern Vietnamese Street Food |
| Golden Hind | Traditional British Fish & Chips | $20–30 | Not listed | Marylebone, Traditional British Fish & Chips |
| E5 Bakehouse | Hackney Central, Artisanal Bakery Cafe | $10–20 | The Good Food Guide Britain's Best Bakeries | Not listed |
Recognition history
Dated appearances from independent guides and award organizations, with the underlying list record or original source where available.
Opinionated About Dining Casual in Europe Ranked #361
Opinionated About Dining
Full recognition history (3 entries)
Opinionated About Dining Casual in Europe Ranked #326
Opinionated About Dining
Opinionated About Dining Casual in Europe Highly Recommended
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