


On Lincoln Park's Clark Street, Esmé holds a Michelin star and back-to-back Opinionated About Dining top-200 finishes in North America for its multicourse Nordic-American tasting menu. Chef Jenner Tomaska and co-owner Katrina Bravo run the program inside a gallery-like space where each course arrives on ceramics made by local artists, and the cooking leans toward unexpected savory-sweet combinations at a serious price point.

A Gallery Format That Has Become a Lincoln Park Fixture
Clark Street in Lincoln Park is not the address most people reach for when they think of Chicago's fine-dining tier. That map tends to run through the West Loop, River North, and the restaurant corridors closer to the Loop. Esmé, at 2200 N Clark, has spent several years making the case that a serious tasting-menu program can put down roots in a residential neighbourhood and hold them. For the local dining public, that fact matters as much as the Michelin star the restaurant earned in 2024 and has carried since.
The room itself signals intent before a single course is served. The space reads as an art gallery: high ceilings, controlled lighting, minimalist surfaces. That description fits dozens of ambitious restaurants opened in the last decade, but Esmé takes it further than most. Ceramic pieces made by Chicago-area artists function as the actual serviceware — plates and vessels that change with the program rather than sitting inert on a shelf. The effect is that the room's aesthetic and the meal exist inside the same argument, rather than one merely decorating the other.
The evening begins with guests standing at tables near the entrance, where opening bites are served before the seated multicourse progression begins. It is a structural choice that shapes the social temperature of the room from the first minutes — less formal handoff, more considered arrival.
Where Esmé Sits in Chicago's Tasting-Menu Tier
Chicago runs one of the denser concentrations of tasting-menu restaurants in North America. Alinea and Smyth each hold three Michelin stars and operate at the upper edge of the city's format ambitions. Oriole occupies a similarly refined position. The single-star tier , which includes Kasama, Ever, and Esmé , represents a different proposition: serious program, serious price, with fewer of the resources that three-star operations deploy behind the scenes.
Within that one-star cohort, Esmé's Opinionated About Dining rankings tell the more specific story. In 2025, the restaurant ranked 195th on the OAD Leading Restaurants in North America list, an improvement from 202nd in 2024. OAD rankings are sourced from a large panel of frequent-dining critics rather than from any single publication's taste, which makes consistent placement over two consecutive years a more durable signal than a single review. The 2023 OAD listing as a recommended entry, followed by the climb to top-200 territory, describes a program gaining ground rather than trading on early attention.
The cuisine is listed as Nordic-American and Contemporary , a pairing that positions Esmé between Scandinavian technique and American ingredient sourcing rather than inside either tradition exclusively. That in-between position has become a recognizable category in American fine dining over the last decade, practiced at different registers from Single Thread Farm in Healdsburg to restaurants in Chicago's own peer tier. What distinguishes execution within that category is the specific balance between acidity, fermentation, and sweetness , a balance that requires consistent calibration across a multicourse format.
The Cooking: Unexpected Combinations, High Technical Stakes
Nordic-American tasting menus live or die by their ability to make unfamiliar flavor pairings feel earned rather than arbitrary. The documented dishes from Esmé's program illustrate the approach: Dover sole prepared in a tomahawk presentation, served in a vin jaune sauce with spiced compressed pear and seaweed. Goat cheese ice cream with yuzu marmalade and a cynar-cured egg yolk. These are compositions built on sweet-savory tension rather than on the direct luxury anchors , truffle, caviar, wagyu , that fill out many tasting menus at this price point.
The vin jaune and compressed pear pairing draws on the Jura wine tradition's affinity for oxidative richness alongside fruit, but routes it through a seafood preparation that most French classicists would not attempt. The cynar component in the dessert course introduces bitter amaro character against the dairy fat of goat cheese , a decision that shows structural thinking about flavor across a long meal rather than sweetness as a default resolution. These are the kinds of moves that OAD panelists, who tend to be frequent tasters at this level, notice and reward. Lazy Bear in San Francisco and Atomix in New York City work in comparable registers of cultural layering and technical specificity; Esmé's peer comparisons run in that direction rather than toward more conventional European-trained programs.
Lincoln Park as Dining Address
The neighbourhood context is not incidental to Esmé's identity. Lincoln Park generates a different regular clientele than River North or the West Loop. It is a residential area with a stable base of residents who have the means and interest to support a serious restaurant over time, without the volume of destination diners or out-of-town visitors that higher-traffic corridors attract. Restaurants that work in this kind of neighbourhood tend to develop a loyalty that protects them through slow periods and sustains them across format changes in ways that purely destination-driven restaurants cannot rely on.
That community relationship shows up in the programming choices. The ceramics by local Chicago artists are not simply an aesthetic decision , they are a statement about the restaurant's relationship to the city's creative economy, a signal to a neighbourhood audience that the venue's supply chain runs through the same community its guests come from. It is a position that restaurants like Emeril's in New Orleans built decades ago through local sourcing, and that tasting-menu restaurants in New York, Los Angeles, and San Francisco have pursued through local producer relationships. Esmé's version of that commitment is material and visible in a way that a note on a menu is not.
Planning a Visit
Esmé operates Wednesday through Sunday, opening at 5 PM for evening service, with the room dark on Mondays and Tuesdays. For a Wednesday or Thursday table, lead time of a few weeks tends to be sufficient, but Friday and Saturday seatings at the tasting-menu level typically require more advance planning, particularly as the OAD ranking visibility draws more out-of-town diners into the booking pool. The restaurant is priced at the $$$$ tier, consistent with Chicago's tasting-menu peer group. The address at 2200 N Clark St, Suite B, puts it near the southern end of Lincoln Park, accessible from the Fullerton CTA stop on the Brown, Purple, and Red lines, making the transit option more practical than it would be for West Loop restaurants.
For those building a Chicago dining program across multiple nights, Esmé pairs logically with a visit to Kasama in Ukrainian Village or Ever in the West Loop for contrast within the single-star tier. The three-star experiences at Alinea, Smyth, or Oriole represent a separate decision entirely, in format, price, and booking difficulty. Our full Chicago restaurants guide covers the city's tasting-menu tier in context, alongside the Chicago bars guide, hotels guide, wineries guide, and experiences guide for broader trip planning.
For international comparison within the Nordic-inflected or technically ambitious contemporary tier, Le Bernardin in New York, Providence in Los Angeles, The French Laundry in Napa, and 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana in Hong Kong each illustrate the range of what tasting-menu ambition looks like when it has found a durable address and a clear point of view.
Frequently Asked Questions
What should I eat at Esmé?
Esmé serves a fixed multicourse tasting menu , there is no à la carte ordering , so the kitchen controls the progression from the opening bites at the standing tables through to the final courses. The cuisine follows a Nordic-American framework, with dishes that work through savory-sweet tension and unexpected ingredient combinations. Documented preparations include Dover sole in vin jaune sauce with spiced compressed pear and seaweed, and goat cheese ice cream with yuzu marmalade and a cynar-cured egg yolk. The Michelin inspectors who awarded the restaurant its star in 2024, along with the OAD panelists who ranked it 195th in North America in 2025, point to the compositional range and technical calibration as the program's consistent strengths. The smartest approach is to arrive without specific dish expectations: the ceramics change, the menu develops, and the format is designed to be experienced as a sequence rather than navigated for individual highlights.
Standing Among Peers
A small comparison set for context, based on the venues we track.
| Venue | Awards | Cuisine | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Esmé | Michelin 1 Star | Nordic-American, Contemporary | This venue |
| Alinea | Michelin 3 Star, World's 50 Best | Progressive American, Creative | Progressive American, Creative, $$$$ |
| Kasama | Michelin 2 Star, World's 50 Best | Filipino | Filipino, $$$$ |
| Smyth | Michelin 3 Star, World's 50 Best | Progressive American, Contemporary | Progressive American, Contemporary, $$$$ |
| Boka | Michelin 1 Star | New American, Contemporary | New American, Contemporary, $$$$ |
| Next Restaurant | Michelin 1 Star | American Cuisine | American Cuisine, $$$$ |
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