"B de J"

White subway tiles, brass chandeliers above the bar, and a champagne list that draws serious attention: B de J on Calle de Fernando VI occupies a particular niche in Madrid's mid-range dining scene, one where the drink is treated with as much care as the food. The address places it in the Universidad district, just north of the historic core, a neighbourhood that runs quieter than the tourist circuits around Sol and Retiro without feeling remote.

The kitchen works a concise Spanish and Mediterranean register: jamón, lomo, salmorejo, foie, and a selection of Spanish and French cheeses, alongside what the venue describes as Spanish sandwiches. It reads like a counter-led format built around sharing, where a glass of something sparkling is the logical companion to cured meat and cheese rather than an afterthought. Pricing sits in the €€–€€€ range, moderate to moderately upscale by Madrid standards, which makes the champagne focus feel considered rather than incongruous.

The room itself does a lot of the work. Bright, clean, and deliberately unfussy, it avoids the dim-lit moodiness that characterises so many wine bars in the city. That clarity of aesthetic matches the menu's directness: a short list of well-sourced Spanish products, some French additions, and a drinks programme anchored in bubbles. For a mid-afternoon lunch or an early evening stop before dinner elsewhere, the format holds together well.