Amura

You’ll find Amura at the storied Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel, Cape Town , but there’s more to this restaurant than its enviable location. The menu reimagines the seafood-led approach of chef Ángel León (known for his restaurants Aponiente—a three-Michelin-starred institution—and Alevante in Cádiz, Spain) through a South African lens. Drawing inspiration from the Cape’s waters, the menu is concise yet innovative. A compelling introduction to this philosophy is the signature gilda (a classic Basque skewer), which combines smoked local catch, olives, anchovies, sun-dried tomatoes, and tart pickled peppers into one delightfully briny pintxo. Then there’s a palpably fresh yellowtail tartare in a zesty escabeche dressing, with pickled cucumber and emerald-green dots of herb-laden oil, and a juicy, nutty brioche prawn toast, crusted in sesame seeds, glazed in sweet-yet-savory gochujang, and served with a mayonnaise featuring fermented chile. The food is forward-looking and clever, threading global influences and bright flavors with impressive dexterity. Leading the kitchen is head chef Guillermo Salazar, an Aponiente veteran whose résumé includes New York’s Eleven Madison Park and Gramercy Tavern and San Sebastián’s Arzak and Akelare. The interiors—brought to life by Tristan du Plessis, an acclaimed South African designer known for his cinematic style—add to the experience too. The dining room evokes oceanic kelp forests without being overly clichéd: Think deep greens, warm timber, and bronze accents that frame soaring ceilings and a dramatic double-height wine library, all creating a setting that is both regal and a little sexy. It’s a pleasant relief to settle into a buzzy atmosphere that feels inclusive rather than haughty or performative. The setting is oiled by a drinks program that continues the marine theme, with cocktails using kelp infusions and botanicals from the Mount Nelson gardens. My gin-based Sea Salt captured the salinity and freshness of a sea breeze, inviting a deep ahhh after each sip. For oenophiles there are Andalusian sherries and Cape wines too. You may not expect it from a restaurant so focused on coastal heritage, but it all wraps up perfectly with a caramelly flan—accompanied by a dollop of mint green spirulina chantilly, of course. —Toyo Odetunde

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