Zaab Zaab

Elmhurst's Isan Benchmark

Elmhurst, Queens has long operated as one of New York City's most concentrated corridors for Southeast Asian cooking. Within that neighbourhood, Thai restaurants are stacked with real depth, covering everything from the central-plains comfort food at Eim Khao Mun Kai to the broader regional sweep at Ayada. Zaab Zaab, at 76-04 Woodside Avenue, sits at a specific end of that spectrum: northeastern Thai, or Isan, cooking built around heat, fermentation, and a certain refusal to soften its edges for a wider audience. That specificity has proven to be exactly the right move.

The room does not signal seriousness through its décor. The dining room reads closer to a casual dessert counter than a destination kitchen, which has the effect of foregrounding the food immediately. What arrives at the table operates at a different register than the surroundings suggest: dried shrimp deployed generously, electric fish sauces applied without restraint, and a chile heat that builds rather than announces itself all at once.

What the Awards Say About the Category

Isan cooking occupies an interesting position in New York's critical recognition framework. It tends to be assessed alongside casual Thai rather than alongside the upscale modern Thai that Fish Cheeks and Bangkok Supper Club represent, or the refined northern Thai approach at Chalong. That placement is accurate in terms of price and format, but it can obscure the technical depth involved. Fermenting pla ra (a pungent fermented fish preparation), balancing dried-shrimp intensity against acid, and managing the aromatics in a larb all require precision that does not disappear because the ticket price is modest.

The critical reception confirms the quality. Zaab Zaab holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand (2024), a designation reserved for restaurants delivering food of notable quality at prices below the Guide's full star tier. More granular is its position in Opinionated About Dining's Casual in North America ranking: #255 in 2025, and #253 in 2024. OAD rankings are generated from a pool of experienced diners rather than a single editorial team, which means sustained placement across two years reflects consistent execution rather than a single strong visit. For context, the restaurants compared at the very leading of that list include some of the most closely watched casual venues in the country, placing Zaab Zaab in genuinely competitive company at the national level.

The expansion pattern reinforces the reputation. What started in Elmhurst has since opened outposts in Brooklyn and Manhattan, a trajectory that suggests the kitchen has developed systems to maintain consistency across locations, not just a single-site operation running on local loyalty alone.

The Menu's Logic

Isan cooking is built on a set of foundational techniques and ingredients that do not translate easily when diluted. The menu at Zaab Zaab reads as a commitment to the original parameters rather than a negotiation with them. Dried shrimp and fermented fish sauces appear not as accents but as structural components. The heat comes from chiles used at a volume that assumes the diner is there for it.

The dish that criticism has most consistently pointed to is the larb ped udon: duck breast and fried duck skin with fried lime leaves, mint, fried garlic, and lime juice. The combination of textures here is the point, with crispy skin against the softness of the breast, and the aromatics doing the work that would fall to a sauce in another cuisine. A version with duck liver is also available for those who want the full range of the dish's intensity.

The papaya salad with house-fermented pla ra is a useful calibration dish: the fermentation process extends over time and produces a depth that distinguishes it from versions made with off-the-shelf fish sauce. Fried whole fish and bubbling hot pots sit alongside more approachable formats like prawn pad Thai and rotisserie chicken marinated in coriander and lemongrass, which means the menu accommodates groups with different heat tolerances without abandoning its identity. The beef kapow, topped with holy basil, rounds out what critics have flagged as the essential order.

Group-dining format is not incidental advice. The menu is designed for range, and ordering narrowly produces a different, less complete experience. The width of the menu's technique, from fermented seafood through to rotisserie and hot pots, becomes apparent only when a table covers multiple categories.

Isan in the Global Thai Context

Thai cooking has seen serious critical investment in the past decade, both at the source and in diaspora cities. At the high end of the Bangkok scene, venues like Nahm and Samrub Samrub Thai have built reputations around the documentation and refinement of regional technique. The diaspora equivalent, particularly in cities with large Southeast Asian communities like New York, has moved in a parallel direction: kitchens committed to regional specificity rather than pan-Thai accessibility. Zaab Zaab belongs to this second category, where the cooking's authority comes from fidelity to a specific regional tradition rather than from fine-dining presentation or tasting-menu formats.

That positions it differently from the headline end of New York dining. The restaurants that dominate the city's critical attention in terms of price and prestige, whether French-influenced, modern Korean at Atomix, or omakase formats, operate in a different register entirely. Zaab Zaab's peer set is national casual excellence, where the Bib Gourmand and OAD rankings place it, not the $$$$ tasting-menu tier. Within that peer set, the back-to-back OAD placements put it at the more closely watched end.

Getting There and Planning the Visit

Zaab Zaab is at 76-04 Woodside Avenue in Elmhurst, accessible from the 7 train at the 74th Street-Jackson Heights stop, which is one of the busiest transit hubs in Queens. The neighbourhood itself warrants time before or after the meal: Elmhurst's Jackson Heights corridor contains grocery stores, bakeries, and produce vendors that map directly to the ingredients appearing on menus like Zaab Zaab's. For anyone building a broader picture of New York's Thai and Southeast Asian food scene, this is the right area to spend several hours rather than a single meal.

The price range sits at $$, making it one of the more accessible entries in any serious survey of New York's Thai options. The Bib Gourmand designation formalises that value position within Michelin's own framework. Bringing a group of three or four produces the leading return on the menu's range. For those exploring the full width of New York's food scene, the EP Club guides below cover the city across formats and price tiers.

For more on what the city offers across restaurants, hotels, and experiences, see our full New York City restaurants guide, our full New York City hotels guide, our full New York City bars guide, our full New York City wineries guide, and our full New York City experiences guide. For reference points in American dining at the higher price tier, Emeril's in New Orleans, Lazy Bear in San Francisco, Alinea in Chicago, The French Laundry in Napa, Single Thread Farm in Healdsburg, and Providence in Los Angeles represent the upper end of the national critical conversation.

Quick reference: Zaab Zaab, 76-04 Woodside Ave, Elmhurst, NY 11373. Price range: $$. Michelin Bib Gourmand 2024. OAD Casual North America #255 (2025). Group dining recommended. 7 train to 74th Street-Jackson Heights.