Latium

Latium in London stood on Berners Street as a specialist in Lazio-region Italian cuisine, a place where fresh pasta and bold regional flavors met Fitzrovia’s central dining scene. On arrival guests encountered a narrow dining room with very white walls, crisp linen and framed food photography that set a direct stage for the food. The kitchen offered a dedicated ravioli page, early-evening set menus from £17.50 (2017), and house breads that hinted at the craftsmanship to come.

For visitors seeking honest Italian cooking in central London, Latium delivered clear, appetite-driven dishes and a lively welcome from the maitre d'. The restaurant’s vision took shape under owner Antonio Cerilli with chef-partner Maurizio Morelli, both from Lazio, who emphasized unfussy, ingredient-led cooking. Latium’s philosophy prioritized seasonal produce, small artisan suppliers, and daily-made pasta and bread. Reviews from 2008 and 2017 noted the kitchen’s consistency and sensible wine pricing, and the restaurant earned local respect for staying power until its closure in November 2018.

The culinary journey at Latium focused on regionally specific dishes executed with straightforward technique and precise seasoning. The ravioli selection offered multiple fillings and sauces that showcased soft, fresh pasta skins and concentrated, savory interiors. Grilled lamb leg steak arrived pink and rare, accented with deep-fried artichokes and fondant potatoes, a study in caramelization and controlled heat. Slow-roasted pork belly paired with Calabrian ’nduja delivered a spicy, fatty counterpoint to restrained sides.

Starters ranged from stewed baby octopuses with chickpeas and escarole to a cod-and-smoked salmon fish cake with lime mayonnaise and limon cress, each plate balancing texture and bright seasoning. Desserts such as bonet Piemontese with amaretti crumble and a rich almond-chocolate tart closed meals with focused bitterness and cream. Techniques emphasized slow roasting, careful caramelization, and daily pasta-making; the kitchen favored clarity of flavor over ornament. The dining room at Latium was narrow and energetic, opposite the Sanderson hotel, with smart black slate floors, spotless white walls, ceiling spotlights and single-candle table settings that kept attention on the plate.

Service matched the kitchen’s tone: efficient, proud and distinctly Italian, guided by a capable maitre d' who offered wine advice. Guests often received small nibbles, fried rice balls, cheese-tomato bread and sun-dried tomato rolls, that introduced the menu’s straightforward pleasures. The atmosphere suited couples and small groups seeking a lively yet direct evening; seating was intimate rather than grand, and the restaurant’s layout favored conversational pacing and attentive table service. Best times to visit historically included early-evening slots for the value set menus and weekday dinners when the room filled with locals and hotel guests from nearby addresses.

Dress code leaned smart-casual; think tailored separates rather than formal evening wear. Reservations were advised, especially for Friday and Saturday nights and when requesting specific seating in the narrow space. Note that menu pricing referenced earlier guides listed two-course and three-course set options from £17.50 to £21 (2017) and higher dinner set prices in earlier years.

Latium offers a clear study of Lazio cooking in a compact London setting, memorable for fresh pasta, a strong ravioli focus, and wines chosen to match rustic, seasonal dishes. For diners who value handmade pasta, regional recipes, and honest portion sizes, Latium remains a noteworthy chapter in Fitzrovia’s dining history. Seek out the chef Maurizio Morelli’s recipes and archived menus to recreate the experience, and look for contemporary Lazio-focused kitchens in London that carry similar flavors and techniques inspired by Latium’s approach.