Mulania Brasserie

Where the Alps Meet the Brasserie Format

Laax sits at the edge of the Surselva valley, part of a trio of connected resort villages that together form one of eastern Switzerland's most active winter and summer mountain destinations. The dining scene here, as in most mid-altitude Swiss resort towns, has historically tilted toward hearty mountain fare aimed at exhausted skiers rather than curious eaters. Against that backdrop, the presence of a Michelin Plate-recognised brasserie signals something worth paying attention to. Mulania Brasserie, at Via Murschetg 17, occupies a Graubünden building that has the structural honesty of the region, exposed timber ceiling beams that absorb a century of mountain weather, set against a deliberately contemporary interior treatment. The contrast is not accidental. It mirrors the menu's own negotiation between deep-rooted regional cooking and European brasserie tradition. For a broader look at where this sits in the local food scene, see our full Laax restaurants guide.

The Building as Context

Old Graubünden farm architecture tends toward the pragmatic: thick stone walls, heavy timber frames, small windows designed for warmth rather than views. When a building like this gets reimagined rather than demolished, the bones remain legible. At Mulania, the rustic ceiling beams are the honest remnant of a structure that predates the resort era, while the brasserie format layered over them represents its current function. Michelin's 2025 Plate recognition notes this combination of sleek contemporary style and rustic structure specifically, which suggests the spatial tension is being read as deliberate rather than unrealised. The terrace extends the dining footprint during warmer months, and given the mountain light that Laax receives in summer, it represents one of the more considered outdoor dining positions in the area. The venue opens from 3pm, positioning itself within the après-ski and early-evening window rather than competing with lunch service.

Graubünden on the Plate: What the Ingredients Reveal

The menu at Mulania Brasserie takes its most coherent editorial position through its treatment of Graubünden regional ingredients. Capuns, chard leaf rolls typically filled with spätzle dough, dried meat, and herbs, are among the most specific dishes in the Swiss German culinary canon, strongly tied to the Surselva valley and broader Graubünden territory. Serving them in a brasserie context, alongside moules frites and beef bourguignon, positions them not as museum pieces but as working dishes that earn their place on a menu that also speaks to guests arriving from across Europe. Quark pizokels, the buckwheat spaetzle variant made with quark cheese, represent a similar logic: a dish that requires sourcing buckwheat and fresh quark from the region, not a pantry substitute, and whose texture and flavour depend entirely on that specificity.

This approach to regional sourcing matters in a way that goes beyond sentiment. In the Swiss Alps, the supply chains for genuine regional products, Alpine dairy, cured mountain meats, heritage grains, are shorter and more traceable than almost anywhere in Europe. Graubünden in particular has a strong tradition of air-dried beef (Bündnerfleisch) and grain-based preparations that survived industrialisation largely because of geographic isolation and strong local food culture. A kitchen drawing on those inputs is working with produce that carries its provenance in its texture and flavour, not just on a label.

The seafood strand of the menu introduces a counterpoint. Michelin's recognition text flags seafood as the chef's first love, which places it as the creative anchor of the menu rather than an afterthought. In a landlocked Alpine setting, serious seafood preparation depends entirely on logistics and technique: no proximity to the coast, no local fishing culture to draw on, so what arrives on the plate is a function of supply relationships and kitchen precision. The fact that this coexists with hyper-local Graubünden preparations is precisely the brasserie tension that defines the format. A brasserie is not, in its classical Parisian or Belgian form, a cuisine of origin, it is a cuisine of selection and execution, which is what makes the format adaptable to a mountain town in eastern Switzerland.

Placing Mulania Within Swiss Fine Dining

Switzerland's decorated restaurant tier is heavily concentrated in urban centres and a handful of destination properties. Hotel de Ville Crissier in Crissier and Cheval Blanc by Peter Knogl in Basel represent the multi-starred urban end of that spectrum. In the mountain resort context, Memories in Bad Ragaz and 7132 Silver in Vals serve as reference points for what serious cooking looks like in smaller Alpine communities. Mulania operates a tier below those in formal recognition terms, but the Michelin Plate designation in 2025 is meaningful in this context: it indicates cooking of consistent quality rather than aspirational ambition or reputation-driven tourism.

For Graubünden specifically, Schloss Schauenstein in Fürstenau holds the region's most prominent Michelin position, but it operates as a destination property in a different register entirely. Mulania is a working brasserie in a ski resort, priced at the €€€ tier, which puts it in practical reach of a wider dining audience than the €€€€ establishments that dominate Swiss fine dining lists.

Planning a Visit

Mulania opens from 3pm, which aligns it with the post-mountain, pre-dinner window that defines eating rhythms in resort towns like Laax. The €€€ price point places it comfortably within the upper-casual bracket for a Swiss resort, not inexpensive, but not in the same category as the dedicated tasting-menu restaurants that require commitment on both time and budget. The terrace is worth prioritising in good weather, when Laax's refined light conditions make outdoor eating genuinely atmospheric. Booking ahead is advisable during peak season given the limited size of the venue and the concentration of visitors the resort receives in both winter and summer. The address at Via Murschetg 17 places it within the Laax village core, accessible from the main resort infrastructure. For further context on the area, our full Laax hotels guide, bars guide, and experiences guide cover the surrounding options.

Travellers comparing this against other Swiss regional dining should also consider Colonnade in Lucerne, Einstein Gourmet in Sankt Gallen, and focus ATELIER in Vitznau for the broader pattern of how Swiss regional kitchens are engaging with local ingredients at varying price tiers. Beyond Switzerland, IGNIV Zürich by Andreas Caminada, L'Atelier Robuchon in Geneva, and Da Vittorio in St. Moritz round out the regional picture for readers building a broader Swiss itinerary. For international comparisons in the same casual-brasserie register, Haubentaucher in Rottach-Egern and Loumi in Berlin offer useful reference points. The Laax wineries guide covers wine options in the broader area for those looking to extend their visit beyond the table.