Kronenschlösschen

Marcus Langer is the new man at the helm of the gourmet restaurant in the boutique hotel "Kronenschlösschen" - and the culinary class has noticeably picked up speed. The 40-year-old impressively demonstrates how profound, lively and aromatic classic French haute cuisine can be when it is given a contemporary twist. His deep-flavored sauces, stocks and vinaigrettes in particular set wonderful accents and serve as an aromatic bridge to the excellent products, which Langer stages with a clear signature. This direct, aromatically concentrated style is already evident in the small appetizers: cauliflower heads in a simply perfectly spicy Thai curry mayonnaise and a delicately aromatic broccoli mousse open the menu successfully.

The first course presents marinated yellowtail mackerel in two textures - as a tartare and as a tender fillet - accompanied by celery rolls and surrounded by a foam of herbs, kefir and lime caviar. This is followed by a foam soup of parsley root, refreshingly flavored with Amalfi lemon and refined with sunflower seed crunch: unpretentious, but excellent. Then come the medallions of Atlantic lobster on Jerusalem artichoke confit with elderberry-caper vinaigrette and the wonderfully tender venison, ennobled by a sauce of liver and chocolate. This is accompanied by a praline filled with creamed savoy cabbage and braised salsify.

The finale is followed by great patisserie art: marigold ice cream, variations of quince in jus, mousse and gel as well as mille-feuille of fromage blanc. Magnificent!