Sushi Masataka

Our verdict

A nine-seat cypress counter on a hushed side street in Wan Chai set the terms for Sushi Masataka before a single piece of nigiri arrived. Chef Masataka Fujisawa, a Hokkaido native who joined Lai Sun Dining in 2013 before the restaurant launched under his name, built a format rooted in Edomae tradition while allowing enough creative latitude that reviewers consistently noted it as more polished and inventive than strict classical practice. The address, G/F, 18 Wood Road, placed it away from the neighbourhood's louder dining clusters, and the atmosphere matched: quiet, serious, Japanese in its restraint. The omakase format ran across two tiers, with 14-course and 18-course menus priced at approximately HK$2,080 and HK$2,980 respectively before drinks and service charge. That positions it firmly at the upper end of Hong Kong's sushi counter market. Tatler Asia gave the kitchen strong editorial recognition, and the restaurant held a Michelin Plate. Dishes that drew repeated attention in reviews included a multi-layered toro roll and preparations of Hokkaido sea urchin, both of which reflected Fujisawa's sourcing instincts from his home prefecture. The restaurant operated under the name Rozan before being relaunched as Sushi Masataka in 2018, a rebranding that tied the room's identity directly to the chef rather than a broader dining concept. That shift in positioning, from group-branded to chef-fronted, is common at this tier of Japanese counter dining in Hong Kong, where the counter's credibility depends almost entirely on the person behind it. At nine seats, the format left little room for anonymity between kitchen and guest, which is precisely the point of a room this size. Note that multiple sources indicate Sushi Masataka has permanently closed. The record above is preserved for editorial reference and historical context within Hong Kong's Japanese fine-dining scene.

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