Lilia in New York City opens with an immediate sense of purpose: handmade pastas and wood-fired seafood served in a relaxed Williamsburg room. Step inside and you notice the open grill and a steady rhythm at the pass where pasta is folded, sauces finished, and loaves of focaccia slide from the oven. The first forkful of agnolotti — rectangles of dough filled with sheep’s milk ricotta and feta, glossed in honey-tinged saffron butter and brightened with sun-dried tomatoes — feels like a small celebration. Lilia puts the kitchen’s pasta craft and the texture of its sauces front and center, and the food pulls you in from the first course.

The restaurant’s vision traces to chef Missy Robbins’ deep work in Italian cooking and her desire to make regional traditions approachable. While the kitchen celebrates nonna techniques, the menu reads modern: handmade shapes, seasonal produce, and wood-oven char on fish. Critics and diners have noticed; Lilia appears regularly in best-of lists and holds a Tripadvisor Travelers’ Choice distinction, with a strong local ranking in Brooklyn. The restaurant balances neighborhood warmth with culinary rigor, giving equal weight to simple ingredients, technique, and service that feels personal without being formal. That balance is the reason both regulars and destination diners make time for a table.

The culinary journey at Lilia moves from bright antipasti to hearty pastas and wood-fired seafood. Signature agnolotti arrive delicate and rich, the saffron butter bringing floral warmth while ricotta and feta create a creamy, slightly salty center. The smoky whole black sea bass is roasted in the wood-burning oven until the skin crisps and the flesh flakes cleanly, finished with a sharp salsa verde for contrast. Grilled clams with Calabrian chile combine briny shellfish, smoky fire, and spicy lifts for a plate built on high-contrast flavors. House focaccias — Rosemary Sea Salt and Leek Fontina — and desserts like Olive Oil Cake and Lemon Cream Bomboloni showcase the caffé’s pastry skills. Seasonal small plates and salads rotate, and the kitchen accommodates vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free needs with clear alternatives.

Interior and atmosphere are straightforward and welcoming. Housed in a converted Williamsburg space, the dining room emphasizes open sightlines to the kitchen and grill, with communal energy during dinner service and a quieter caffé vibe by day. Outdoor seating is available seasonally, extending the dining room to the street. Service is warm and knowledgeable; staff guide wine pairings from an all-Italian list that complements the elemental flavors on the plate. Expect a comfortable, lively room rather than hushed formality, and a layout that highlights the wood-fired oven as the culinary anchor.

For essential details, Lilia is busiest for weeknight and weekend dinners, and reservations are recommended via Resy or email well in advance. The caffé serves breakfast and daytime pastries, making late-morning visits ideal for focaccia and bomboloni. Dress is smart-casual; come comfortable but presentable. If you’re booking for a special night, request a table near the open kitchen to watch the team at work.

Whether you plan a relaxed lunch, a focused pasta dinner, or a pastry-driven morning, Lilia in New York City delivers clear, ingredient-led Italian cooking. Reserve a table soon at Lilia to taste handmade pasta, wood-fired seafood, and a wine list chosen to match each plate.