The Compass

The Compass is a restaurant at 58 Penton Street in London, now permanently closed. It opened as a two-sided dining proposition: a convivial pub downstairs and a bouchon-style French restaurant upstairs. The location places it within easy reach of Clerkenwell and Farringdon, a short walk from Angel tube and local office districts. The menu reads like a conversation between Lyonnais bistro food and East End pub cooking, delivered with visible skill and local ingredients.

Start with escargot with tarragon or the Bayonne ham with celeriac remoulade to see the kitchen’s direction. Chef Henry Harris, who leads the upstairs menu, brings a background rooted in classic French bistro technique and experience from his Knightsbridge Racine days. That pedigree shapes The Compass’s vision: cooking that favors sharp knives, hot ovens, and boldly seasoned sauces rather than modernist gadgets. Ownership and operational direction come from a small team that values heritage; Dave Strauss is named among the venue partners tied to the concept.

The philosophy is straightforward: unabashedly French dishes presented in an informal setting, with British pub favorites below that reflect the neighborhood’s tastes. The team emphasizes seasonality and a short, focused menu so each plate arrives exactly as intended. The Compass centers on a handful of signature dishes that define the house style. Confit de canard arrives with braised mogettes; the leg is slow-cooked to a silk texture, the skin crisped before service, and the beans carry braising juices.

Steak tartare is seasoned tableside and finished with a traditional egg yolk and crunchy toast; its balance of acidity and fat is a showcase of knife work. Cod fillet with saffron and mussels highlights British seafood with a French reduction sauce, a bright contrast of brine and sweet saffron notes. Escargot served with tarragon butter offers an herbal lift, while Bayonne ham with celeriac remoulade provides salt and crunch. Downstairs, pub classics such as beer-battered fish and chips and bangers and mash are prepared with fresh local fish and house-made gravy.

Daily specials rotate to reflect market catches and seasonal vegetables; expect shellfish in warmer months and slow-cooked confits in winter. Sauces are reduced, stocks are clarified, and technique is visible on every plate. Interior and service at The Compass balance warmth and efficiency. Upstairs feels like a French bistro reinterpreted for London: timber tables, simple plates, and seating arranged in small groups with tables up to six.

Downstairs remains a traditional pub room where bar chatter and televised sport sit alongside classic wooden bars and bench seating. Service is direct and personable; teams aim for friendly, unrushed dining rather than formality. The venue preserves historic building elements while avoiding heavy renovation, so exposed brick and older timber details give character without theatrics. Wines focus on French bottles and approachable apéritifs, with a selection of digestifs to finish.

The overall atmosphere shifts by hour: polished and intimate for evening dining upstairs, relaxed and communal for daytime pub trade downstairs. Whether you arrived for a refined plate at the bistro or a comforting meal in the pub, The Compass offered clear, flavorful cooking and a dual-concept dining experience in London. The Compass has closed permanently.