Oy Weinbar & Restaurant

An "O" and a "Y" glow softly above the door: "Oy". The exclamation is used differently in different languages, but always conveys an emotion - this is how chef Robin Yeoman explains the name. Together with host Joscha Rozsa, he took over the well-known "Williams" bar in Unterbilk this summer - and created a casual place for damn good food. Admittedly: The interior does not immediately give away the high culinary art.

Rustic wooden furniture, unplastered brick walls, paper napkins - more pub than fine dining. But one look at the menu is enough to make you realize: The chef has big ambitions here. As an entree, we order oysters with nuoc cham, a Vietnamese sweet and sour dipping sauce made from fish sauce, garlic, lime juice, chili and vinegar. Here it serves as a fine garnish for the fresh mussels, coated with fig leaf oil and garnished with trout caviar.

The grilled octopus as the main course comes with unusual Lebanese influences: on hummus, accompanied by spiral peppers, raisins and crispy flatbread. A combination of sloppiness and crispiness, creaminess and spice - exactly the balance you want from an oriental-inspired dish. The marrow bone is also unusual - casually halved, braised in the oven and finished with red prawns, crispy panatura and chives. It is served with a fresh parsley salad, which elegantly balances out the ornate richness.

The wine list, which so far has around one hundred items - plus around 25 by the glass - focuses on Germany, Austria and France and is still being developed.