Graft Wine and Food

A Lane in Zhongshan, and What It Signals

Taipei's more interesting drinking establishments tend not to announce themselves from main roads. The address at Lane 170, Songjiang Road places Graft Wine and Food in that familiar Zhongshan pattern: a lane-set address that filters out the casual passerby and rewards anyone who came with a specific intention. This is a format the city has refined across its cocktail bars and wine-focused rooms alike, from the polished programs at Alchemy and Bar Mood to the more experimental registers at Club Boys Saloon and Draft Land. Graft sits within that broader culture of intentional, specialist venues, but its framing is distinctly wine-first.

The name is not incidental. In the nineteenth century, a fungal pest called Phylloxera devastated European vineyards, and the solution that saved the continent's viticulture was grafting European Vitis vinifera vines onto American rootstock. It was a technical intervention with permanent consequences: virtually every bottle of European wine produced since that period comes from a grafted vine. Naming a bar after this moment in wine history is a declaration of seriousness. It signals that the operator is thinking about wine on a longer timeline than the current vintage sheet.

The Ritual of How You Drink Here

Wine bars in Taipei have proliferated over the last several years, but they do not all operate with the same logic. Some are retail hybrids, some are restaurant adjacents, and some exist primarily as social spaces where wine is the pretext. The dining ritual at Graft is shaped by a different priority: the wine program is the architecture, and the food is designed to work within it.

This matters for how a visit unfolds in practice. The pacing is driven by the glass, not the plate. Guests who arrive expecting a restaurant experience with wine as accompaniment will find the emphasis reversed. The correct approach is to let the selection process anchor the evening, treating food choices as structural support for the wine rather than the other way around. It is a European wine bar logic, applied to a Taipei context, and it requires a willingness to let the host or list guide the sequence of the night.

Owner Tommy Chan brings more than two decades of focused wine engagement to that list. He opened Graft in 2023 after building that experience from a Hong Kong base, a background that places him within a specific lineage of Chinese-language wine culture where serious collecting and deep product knowledge have coexisted with formal Cantonese dining traditions. That context informs the sensibility here: there is knowledge in the room, and the format expects you to engage with it.

Where Graft Sits in Taipei's Drinking Scene

Taipei's bar and wine culture has developed into one of Asia's more sophisticated drinking environments, and it operates across distinct tiers. The cocktail end is well-represented internationally, with recognition flowing to programs that have built consistent technical identities over years. The wine side has been slower to attract that kind of attention, partly because wine bars in the city have historically operated closer to casual retail than to the specialist format Graft is working in.

For comparison, Taiwan's drinks scene beyond Taipei includes compelling programs at venues like Maltail in Kaohsiung, Moonrock in Tainan, and Vender in Taichung, each building a distinct local identity within their cities. Internationally, the specialist format Graft inhabits shares logic with venues like Bar Leather Apron in Honolulu, Jewel of the South in New Orleans, Julep in Houston, and Kumiko in Chicago, venues where a clear conceptual identity anchors the entire offering.

What distinguishes Graft within the Taipei wine bar category is the historical and conceptual grounding of the name itself. Most wine bars in the city do not open with a thesis. The Phylloxera framing gives Graft an intellectual anchor that is either compelling or irrelevant depending on your appetite for that kind of engagement. For those who find it compelling, the bar rewards sustained attention.

Planning Your Visit

Graft Wine and Food is located at No. 9-9, Lane 170, Songjiang Road, Zhongshan District, Taipei. The lane address means foot-traffic discovery is not the primary way guests arrive; most come by intention, either by MRT to Xingtian Temple or Songjiang Nanjing stations, or by taxi using the full address. Given that Graft opened in 2023 and operates in a format where the host's engagement is part of the value, visits during quieter periods of the week will allow for more direct interaction with whoever is running the list that evening. Specific hours and booking details are leading confirmed directly before visiting, as these tend to shift for smaller independent operations. Our full Taipei restaurants guide covers the broader context for eating and drinking across the city's neighbourhoods.