FARM

Farm is a playful restaurant. Guests are greeted by Mrs Fox and Messrs Wolf and Bear. Their private party is in full swing. The Rabbit of the Estonian folk song has not been invited and the badgers stand idle, they are taxidermied after all.

The jest continues in the dining room, which is nothing short of a farmer’s dream of a good life: birds, flowers, and a kitchen behind a glass wall. Even the menu is full of glee, with traditional Estonian dishes pulling new and interesting tricks. Spiced sprat ice cream on a stick, foamed cod liver and creamy sauerkraut soup are all novel, and yet, they strike a familiar chord. The ingredients are recognizable, the aromas balanced, the compositions completely logical.

All we can do is wonder why no one has prepared Estonian food in this way before. The new flavor games are supported by local wines, ciders, lemonades and juices, with a broader-than-usual selection. The cult of rhubarb drinks that has taken root in Estonia is evident here; a sparkling rhubarb aperitif and a dry, nuanced (white) rhubarb wine to pair with the main course. If we were told in earnest that it was grape wine, we might believe it.

There’s rhubarb lemonade for the kids and a house-made rhubarb liquor for their parents. Each a solid drink with a clear and memorable taste.