Puri Chef's Side

Expectations were astronomical, Puri’s home, in the Haven Kakumäe marina, was the talk of the town before it was even built. The fact that one of Estonia’s most talented young chefs, Joonas Koppel, was finally opening his own restaurant sparked extreme curiosity. When it finally launched, Puri delivered on all counts, with not one, but two eateries; an à la carte dining room for a regular Tuesday dinner; and a chef’s table for gustatory extravaganzas. The structure is striking and the effect is only amplified indoors; snow-white stairs lead to a dramatically black, first floor space where the two restaurants are located.

The views of the marina and the open sea are dramatic. This swank atmosphere sets the bar high, you’re not in a simple cafeteria, you’re in a serious fine dining establishment. All it takes is one word with the waiter and you’ll know that the food and drinks will match the milieu. Koppel’s dishes are inspired by nature and foreign cultures, his approach is totally distinctive, his flavor combinations rare and unusual; bone marrow and oyster leaf, snow crab with potato and apple, squab with olives and blueberries.

Sommelier Kristjan Kiho does not restrict himself to pairing each course with the appropriate wine. Often, he reverses the process. A distinctive wine matured in acacia barrels demands an equally special dish. An even greater food- and drink harmony is achieved when the bartender, Oleg Smirnov, enters Koppel’s kitchen.

Together, these three talents create a culinary polyphony distinctive.