ORE

The Ore’s broad windows open to a narrow, cobbled street of Tallinn Old Town. Those arriving by car are still shaken from the last stage of the journey. And those new to the Ore take their seats ignorant of the shocks to follow. Ore, after all, serves flavours that shock.

Thymus, craterellus mushrooms, chestnut cream, teriyaki sauce. Four different flavours blend into a harmony typical to the Ore. Pulled pearl oyster mushrooms with smoked eel and smoked eel broth (relax, this is not illegal catch – eel is reared in Estonia) are a particularly deep, nuanced combination, and a leading selection from the Hungarian Tornai winery Juhfark grapes adds green and flowery notes. Combined, the flavours shake the eater’s thoughts loose from everything else and focus them on the food.

The tall arched ceilings create a somewhat solemn atmosphere. Yes, the Ore is a sanctuary of Estonian food and cuisine, and its head chef Silver Saa’s creation shakes the guests out of whatever thoughts they arrived with.