Lazy Susan

Though Lazy Susan Portland closed its doors in July 2023, this beloved Montavilla neighborhood gem remains a defining chapter in the city's culinary evolution, showcasing how polished American comfort food could capture hearts through wood-fired mastery. Founded by chef Andrew Mace and pastry chef Nora Mace in March 2020, with backing from restaurateur Akkapong "Earl" Ninsom, Lazy Susan emerged during unprecedented times yet quickly established itself as Portland's most compelling neighborhood destination. The husband-and-wife team brought impressive pedigrees, Andrew from Le Pigeon and Han Oak, Nora from Tusk and Ava Gene's, creating a restaurant that honored both tradition and innovation. Despite opening amid pandemic challenges, Lazy Susan earned acclaim for its warm hospitality and distinctive culinary vision.

The cuisine centered around a charcoal grill that infused many dishes with smoky depth. Lazy Susan's menu celebrated New American fare with global influences, featuring signature creations like jerk quail skewers inspired by a line cook's St. Thomas heritage, izakaya-style mackerel, and the well-known chicken-fried pork cutlet crowned with sauce gribiche and Thai-style fried egg. Coal-roasted eggplant with labneh and honey exemplified the restaurant's vegetable-forward approach, while beef brisket and porcini mushroom pies showcased Andrew's sophisticated comfort food philosophy.

Weekend brunch became equally celebrated, offering house-made doughnuts, Dutch baby pancakes, and bialy plates with house-cured lox that reflected the chef's Jewish culinary heritage. The 64-seat dining room at 7937 SE Stark Street radiated warmth and conviviality, striking the well-suited balance between neighborhood casualness and culinary sophistication. The open kitchen's charcoal grill served as both cooking centerpiece and theatrical element, while the retro-inspired design created an atmosphere that welcomed families and food enthusiasts alike. The beverage program matched the kitchen's creativity, featuring inventive cocktails and slushies alongside the food.

The curated wine list emphasized natural producers, complementing the wood-fired flavors beautifully. While Lazy Susan's three-year run ended too soon, its impact on Portland fine dining endures. The restaurant proved that neighborhood establishments could achieve culinary excellence without sacrificing accessibility, creating a template for community-focused dining that honored both craft and comfort. For those who experienced Andrew and Nora Mace's wood-fired vision, Lazy Susan remains a memorable testament to Portland's innovative spirit and the power of polished hospitality.