Hea Maa

Soomaa is a special kind of place: it has five seasons rather than four. The fifth is that strange period around spring when the lowlands are flooded and rowboats become the optimal means of transportation. Because of these deluges, fruits from this region have a distinctive flavor. At Hea Maa (Good Land) restaurant in Pärnu, head chef and owner Virkko Vendla personally ferries them to his kitchen.

The first impression of his small eatery suggests anything but a rustic milieu: rather, it’s tuned to vintage formal. Plating is rather coquettish, but the dishes are in essence honest country food with pure flavors. The smart drinks to choose would be the local beers and ciders. Pair the Tori Cider Farm’s Talvenauding cider with the fish.

All thoughts of grape-based drinks go out of the door. The same maker’s ice cider puts any dessert wine to shame.