Grand Holm Marina Harbour Restaurant

The Grand Holm Marina, in the historic Haapsalu marina, lives up to the ambition inherent in its name. This is one of Estonia’s most beautiful yacht harbors. Summertime, the restaurant’s outdoor tables are so close to the water you could almost dip your toes in the lazy waves that lick the pier. The food and especially the drinks measure up to the picturesque surroundings.

Paap Pihelgas is one of the country’s best baristas; just dropping by for a coffee is well worth the time it takes to get here. His coffee menu offers a frequently changing selection of beans from small, independent roasters. It’s no surprise that those who come for a caffeine fix tend to stay for the rest. Order a glass of homemade lemonade or a cocktail heavy on intriguing house-made ingredients, and you’ll find yourself asking for food.

Baltic herring, especially common fish among the local seas, has always been a mainstay of the menu; in different guises, but always interesting and flavorful. Visits to the Grand Holm Marina generally run backwards like this: first the coffee, then the food, and always the sea lapping at the pier.