Quintonil: Mexico City’s Modern Mexican Masterpiece
- EH
- May 4
- 8 min read
An Immersive Two-Michelin-Star Experience in Polanco
Located in Mexico City’s upscale Polanco district, Quintonil has secured its status as a titan of global gastronomy. Co-owned by chef Jorge Vallejo and his wife Alejandra Flores, this intimate 42-seat restaurant marries contemporary technique with deep Mexican roots. In 2024, Quintonil earned two Michelin stars – the first year the guide covered Mexico – tying with Pujol as the country’s top-rated restaurant. It also ranks No.7 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, a testament to its influence on the new wave of Mexican gastronomy. Quintonil (named after a local green herb) specializes in “boundary-pushing Mexican cuisine” built on fresh, local ingredients and traditional flavors woven into modern presentations.
On the evening of December 23, 2024, we walked in and found a sleek, welcoming space with volcanic stone floors and walls adorned in wood and mirrors – an elegant backdrop for Vallejo’s culinary performance. The restaurant recently added a chef’s counter in 2020 that offers a direct view into the open kitchen. From there, you can watch the brigade of chefs meticulously plating dishes, foreshadowing the artistry and inventiveness to come.
We embarked on Quintonil’s Chef’s Menu, a seasonal tasting menu that would take us on a three-hour journey through modern Mexican cuisine. Shortly after we settled in, our server presented an amuse-bouche: a small bowl of chileatole – a warm corn masa-based soufp – enriched with earthy huitlacoche (Mexican corn truffle) and perfumed with fresh herbs. This silky, aromatic broth immediately grounded us in Mexico’s terroir, its comforting maize flavors lifted by the truffle-like depth of huitlacoche. Next came a delightful snack: a crispy grilled mussel tostada. Atop the miniature tostada was a tangle of tender pickled mussels drizzled with mole del mar (a savory mole sauce imbued with seaweed and seafood stock) and a dot of charred onion puree - an explosion of briny ocean and smoky, tangy earth.
The Chef’s Menu: Winter 2024 Edition
Each course highlighted a distinct facet of Mexican ingredients, from vegetables to seafood – even insects – all presented with refined technique. Our winter 2024 menu featured the following courses:
Butternut Squash and Tomato Salad – with rice horchata dressing and toasted pumpkin seeds
Bluefin Tuna – with brassica aguachile, wasabi ice cream, pickled watermelon radish, and mustard leaves
Red Lobster from Baja California – with chilhuacle rojo chili and orange gastrique, on cauliflower cream
Duck Pibil Tamal – with young corn cream (elote sauce)
“Entomophagy Festival” – a spread of preparations featuring edible insects (served with red corn segueza and heirloom corn tortillas)
Dry-Aged Rib Eye – with chichilo negro mole and a huitlacoche-charred vegetable pico de gallo
Nopal Cactus Sorbet – prickly pear cactus paddle sorbet (palate cleanser)
Coconut Sorbet – with marine plankton, physalis (cape gooseberry), and caviar
Mignardises – bite-sized final sweet treats
Butternut Squash and Tomato Salad – The first course was a vibrant celebration of Mexico’s harvest. A ring of sweet roasted butternut squash and juicy heirloom tomatoes arrived dressed in a creamy rice horchata emulsion, lightly spiced like the beloved Mexican rice drink. Roasted pumpkin seeds added a satisfying crunch to each forkful. Though humble in appearance, this salad packed comforting flavors – the nutty squash and toasty seeds balanced by the bright acidity of tomato. It was a refreshing start that showcased Quintonil’s knack for elevating simple vegetables with subtle twists.
Bluefin Tuna with Brassica Aguachile – Next, we were served a stunning seafood course: pristine slices of bluefin tuna sashimi bathed in a jade-green aguachile sauce made from brassicas (think broccoli and kale lending a peppery verdant kick). Dabs of creamy wasabi ice cream on the plate immediately drew our curiosity – an unconventional riff that provided a cold, sinus-tingling heat to accompany the fish. Garnishing the tuna were wafer-thin rounds of pickled watermelon radish and tiny mustard leaves, which lent crunch and a mustardy spice. Each bite was a play of contrasts: luxurious tuna against zesty herbaceous sauce, the fiery-sweet chill of wasabi ice cream, and pickles that cut through the richness. It was an inventive ode to the Mexican crudo tradition with a Japanese twist.
Red Lobster with Chilhuacle Chili and Orange Gastrique – The seafood journey continued with a succulent red lobster tail sourced from Baja California. Quintonil presented the lobster in a pool of silky cauliflower cream, topped with a glossy chilhuacle rojo chili sauce – a specialty Oaxacan chili lending mild heat and deep smoky notes. An orange gastrique (a reduction of citrus juice and vinegar) was artfully drizzled around the plate, its bright tang enhancing the lobster’s sweetness. The tender chunks of lobster were perfectly poached, practically melting in our mouths, while the sauces provided a sophisticated balance of sweet, smoky, and acidic.
Duck Pibil Tamal – In a creative nod to Yucatán cuisine, the next dish reimagined the traditional tamal. We uncovered a delicate duck pibil tamal, where shredded duck meat—marinated in the aromatic achiote spice blend of cochinita pibil—was tucked inside soft corn masa. The tamal was blanketed tableside in a ladle of young corn cream, a silky sauce made from tender new corn kernels that imbued the dish with gentle sweetness. Each mouthful combined the smoky, spiced richness of the duck with the comforting sweetness of corn, essentially distilling the essence of a Mexican cornfield into a tamal. This course was hearty yet elegant, and we loved the interplay of traditional flavors presented in an elevated format.
An array of dishes from the “Entomophagy Festival” course at Quintonil, featuring creative uses of edible insects (ant larvae, beetles, grasshoppers, and more) served with fresh salsas and warm tortillas.“Entomophagy Festival” – A Celebration of Insects – Perhaps the most adventurous turn of the evening was Quintonil’s much-anticipated “Entomophagy Festival.” In a country where eating insects has been part of the culinary heritage for centuries, Chef Vallejo boldly brought this tradition to our fine-dining table in a whimsical DIY taco course. A wooden tray arrived holding warm criollo corn tortillas from Opichén, Yucatán, accompanied by a colorful spread of small bowls. Each bowl contained a unique preparation incorporating edible insects:
A zingy vegetable ceviche tossed in a smoked cactus leche de tigre marinade, dotted with greens and marigold petals, offering a bright, tangy contrast to the richer elements.
A mound of charred avocado tartare topped with a spoonful of escamoles – ant larvae often called “Mexican caviar” for their delicate, nutty flavor. The creamy avocado and buttery escamoles melded into a luxuriously silky bite.
An earthy oyster mushroom alambre (a fajita-like sauté) mixed with caramelized onions, finished with spicy salsa macha and a dollop of grasshopper chintextle – a smoky Oaxacan paste of ground chilies and grasshoppers. This had all the savory satisfaction of a street taco filling, with an extra umami punch from the insects.
A hearty bowl of santanero beans from Oaxaca, slow-cooked with confit onions until velvety. These beans acted as a rustic base, grounding the more exotic flavors.
Crumbles of homemade chorizo studded with cocopaches (a type of native beetle), giving the sausage an oddly delicious crunch and a deep woodsy undertone.
A fiery salsa roja blended with jumiles (aromatic stink bugs) and the herb epazote. This bright red salsa had an intriguing herbal funk — thanks to the jumiles — that elevated its heat and acidity.
We crafted our own tacos, layering each tortilla with combinations of these fillings and sauces. The experience was interactive and exhilarating: smoky, spicy, and surprisingly approachable despite the unusual proteins. Each bite revealed how insects can impart flavor – the ant larvae tasted mildly nutty, the grasshopper paste added savoriness, the beetles a toasty crunch. It’s not every day that fine dining invites you to feast on insects, and Quintonil does it in a way that honors tradition while delighting modern palates.
Dry-Aged Rib Eye with Chichilo Negro – After the eye-opening entomophagy interlude, a rich meat course arrived to firmly anchor the meal. A slice of dry-aged rib eye steak, perfectly pink and tender, napped in a velvety chichilo negro mole. Chichilo negro is one of Oaxaca’s prized moles – deeply dark, smoky, and complex, made with a blend of toasted chilies (often including the chilhuacle chile), charred tortillas, and spices. Each bite coated our tongues with layers of smoke, chile warmth, and a hint of bittersweet chocolate from the mole. On the side was a clever twist on pico de gallo: rather than the usual tomato salsa, Quintonil served a pico of charred vegetables and huitlacoche (corn fungus) mixed with fresh herbs. This provided an earthy-sweet counterpoint and a bit of texture to the rich beef and mole. Together, the rib eye and accompaniments felt like a tribute to Mexico’s BBQ and grilling traditions, transformed into a refined masterpiece on the plate.
Nopal Cactus Sorbet – To cleanse our palates, we were presented with a scoop of green nopal sorbet nestled on a chilled marble stone. Made from the juice of prickly pear cactus paddles, this sorbet was light and herbaceous, with a flavor reminiscent of cucumber and green melon, but with a distinctly Mexican character. It was lightly sweet, with a hint of tartness, and utterly refreshing.
Coconut Sorbet with Plankton and Caviar – Quintonil’s grand finale dessert exemplified Chef Vallejo’s fearless creativity. In a shimmering bowl arrived a single white quenelle of coconut sorbet crowned with a heaping spoonful of glistening black caviar. Alongside were dots of marine plankton gelée and a few fresh physalis (cape gooseberries) providing bright floral tartness. The flavors were astonishing: the briny burst of the caviar and the subtle oceanic depth of plankton paired beautifully with the creamy, tropical sweetness of coconut. Tiny golden physalis lent a fruity acidity to round out the bite. This dessert managed to be both indulgent and thought-provoking, ending our meal on a high note.
Mignardises – Finally, as a postscript, an assortment of mignardises was presented to conclude the feast. These bite-sized sweets included a selection of Mexican-inspired confections – we remember a delicate chocolate truffle infused with smoky pasilla chili and a tiny macaron bursting with guava jam. Each was a delightful last taste of Quintonil’s creativity.
Conclusion
By the end of this epic dinner, we were thoroughly satisfied, energized, and in awe of the experience. Despite the multitude of courses and bold flavors, the pacing of the meal was gentle and unhurried; over the course of roughly three hours, we were satiated but never overwhelmed.
Throughout the evening, the service was impeccable and heartfelt – our waiter guided us with stories for each dish (and even hand-wrote a list of local foodie recommendations for us during a brief pause between courses).
The attention to detail extended beyond the plate: as a keepsake, we were handed a printed menu at the end along with a booklet explaining the history behind the courses. It was a delightful surprise that underscored Quintonil’s commitment to turning a meal into a memorable journey.
Quintonil delivered a masterclass in modern Mexican fine dining – a harmonious blend of innovation and tradition. Chef Jorge Vallejo’s vision shines in every course, whether he’s elevating a simple squash salad or daring us to embrace the rich heritage of entomophagy. Few restaurants in the world manage to so seamlessly marry alta cocina (haute cuisine) technique with the soul of local culture. It’s clear to us why Quintonil has earned its place among the world’s dining titans. Our journey through the Chef’s Menu was immersive, enlightening, and above all, delicious – an experience that affirmed Quintonil’s reputation as a modern Mexican masterpiece.
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