Dirhami Kalakohvik

Not far from the town of Haapsalu, on the Northwest side of Estonia is a place where time seems to stand still, where nothing much happens unless a fishing vessel turns up to create momentary commotion in the small port, This is a terrific destination if you want to get away from everything, over steaming bowl of fish soup at the snug restaurant Dirhami. An hour here feels like a week’s vacation from the daily grind. The food is as simple as the scene is picturesque; the menu a direct example of what just came off that fishing boat: smoked, fried or baked fish, or soup, and one or two side dishes, that’s it.

But this utter simplicity tastes phenomenal; each type of fish with its own pronounced flavor, pure and fresh, without much fuss. It’s odd how fish this fresh has become such a rarity that you can only enjoy it in a few remote places across the country.