Lou Nashville

Our verdict

A California chef with time in Paris opening a natural wine bar on Nashville's east side was, for a stretch, exactly the kind of counter-programming the city's dining scene needed. Lou, at 1304 McGavock Pike in Riverside Village, drew on a European-leaning sensibility, seasonal, vegetable-forward cooking, a thoughtful pour list weighted toward natural and low-intervention bottles, while staying loose enough for a long brunch on the patio or an easy weeknight dinner on the lawn. The menu moved between registers without losing focus. Brunch brought dishes like chocolate maple buckwheat pancakes and Peruvian lima beans; dinner leaned toward whole roasted chickens and the kind of Beaujolais magnums that suggest the wine list was taken as seriously as the food. That balance, unfussy but considered, seasonal without being precious, earned Lou a Best of Nashville recognition from the Nashville Scene and a review in Condé Nast Traveler, two signals that placed it well above the neighborhood-restaurant baseline. Mailea Weger's background gave the room its particular character. Her California training and Paris experience translated into a cooking style that sat somewhere between a West Coast all-day café and a French bistro, with the patio and open lawn reinforcing the sense that the point was to stay, not to turn tables. The price range, moderate to upper-moderate, kept it accessible for regulars while the wine program gave it a reason to draw guests from across the city. Lou has since closed, and the Riverside Village location no longer operates under that name.